Strollio lunch
Bakery$
The life of a flour pioneer is dangerous.
Once your owner feeds you every day and (mostly) shares your stories online. Next you are the secret magazine behind the fridge.
Of all the disasters that the flour society has faced, few have been like it
as bad as the Great Perth Starter Dry-up of 2020: the extinction event caused by the easing of COVID restrictions and the reopening of cafes, restaurants and bars almost six years ago to the day.
Although the great revival of generosity was good news for mankind, it signaled
the beginning of the end for Clint Yeastwoods, Jane Doughs and every other sourdough pioneer conceived during the lockdown.
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For others, though, the baking was not just an epidemic, as confirmed by the prince
neighborhood bakeries that have been open since COVID. Think Teeter in the East
Perth; Hunter’s Bread in Bicton; with the prestigious Bred Co in Albany. (Even North Beach’s internationally recognized Maestro Pizza began as a closing project.) The mid-2024 arrival of Strollio’s Luncheonette, meanwhile, marked Tuart Hill’s entry into the conversation.
Not that Strollio will immediately strike you like bread.
As its name suggests, Strollio’s is modeled after the neighborhood lunch bars and foodies of the 90s: molded plastic chairs, glass windows, staples and all. It’s a credit to the eye of Hannah Budge – designer, dressmaker and co-owner of Strollio’s – that despite being only two years old, the shop looks and feels like it’s been around for decades.
There’s a similar vintage spirit to the menu, starting with nostalgic baked goods. Delicious donuts are available as chubby rings that come glazed or rolled in cinnamon sugar; or plump bomboloni-esque packets filled with lemon zest, pale egg custard and other classic fillings. (And I spell “goo” in a good way.)
Vegemite, kimchi and jalapeños are the rotating stars of the delicious loose leaf wrappers.
Max Veenhuyzen
There are also, naturally, sandwiches – and they’re all made with bread baked in-store by Nathan Alexander. Originally Alexander O’s and the North Street Store, Alexander is now Budge’s partner, co-owner of Strollio’s and the inspiration for all the flour-based treats in the cabinet.
Sometimes the bread in the sandwich is the joint head. Well-burnt wood
The focaccia, bursting with tiny air bubbles, is as impressive as silk
stracciatella and mortadella rock they are born. Homemade white bread has a chewiness and flavor that suggests there’s more going on under the hood than just yeast. Enjoy it indoors on a poached egg sandwich with lettuce or as toast, then take the bread home so you can run deeper lessons.
Other times, bread has more of a supporting role.
When toasted, wholemeal bread and rye make a fine, grainy framework for a brilliant, unusual Reuben: the briny richness of the pastrami perfectly offsets the floral pop of coriander seeds; the sour crunch of sauerkraut; with a bite of horseradish in a homemade Russian dressing.
Seasonal and Sunday specials will come and go. The grocery lines will change. A variety of independent food and culture publications are rotated through a series of magazines. And Alexander and his team are always trying.
As I walked into the kitchen to check the authenticity of this review, I spied a muslin-covered jar on the shelf that held the taupe liquid. The sticker on the jar read “Nathan.” It looks like someone is about to become the proud father of a new powder starter.
The bottom-up
Sky: a wonderful bakery hanging its Colors on the mast
Go to plate: jalapeno cheese roll ($4.50), straccia-della focaccia ($15), Reuben sandwich ($18)
Drinks: a perfect mix of modern coffee options – batch brew, alt milk – and a fridge full of independent drinks
Cost: about $40 for two people, excluding drinks and merchandise
Good Food reviews are kept anonymous and are independently paid. The restaurant may not pay for the review or be included in the review Healthy Food Guide.
Max Veenhuyzen is a journalist and photographer who has been writing about food, drink and travel for national and international publications for over 20 years. He reviews restaurants for the Good Food Guide.
